Milan Fashion Week Spring 2013
I adore the designers who show at Milan Fashion Week – The clothes are inevitably dramatic, womanly, and sexy sexy sexy. This season was no exception, the collections shown were color, extravagant, and downright spectacular.
Versace:
The Versace woman is never afraid to show some skin and this Spring she’ll really be putting her fabulous figure on display in an assortment of mini skirts, dresses, and shorts in mesh, nude lace, and sheer fabrics.
Low slung belts, studded cross-body bags, midriff baring tops, and knee-high gladiator sandal-boot hybrids were the accessories de jour, all in blacks, nudes, and vibrant Spring colors. I especially liked the sleeveless shift dresses and the studded belts which added a dash of rock n’ roll to the looks.
Salvatore Ferragamo:
Leather and skins were highly featured at the Ferragamo show, and while other designers showed flowy silhouettes, bright colors, and prints & florals, Ferragamo was structured and tailored.
The black, white & nude collection included fabulous outerwear, slim pants, lacing, metallics, lace, mesh fabrics, snake-skin, boots, and studs, buckles & grommets.
Alberta Ferretti:
Delicate. Ladylike. Romantic. Those are all words that I usually associate with Alberta Ferretti and this Spring collection is no different. I might even add dreamy this season.
Between the beading, shimmering, feathers, lace, and wet-looking slinky fabrics this collection was a treat for the senses, you wanted to reach out and touch all the aquatic-inspired designs!
Prada:
‘Dramatic’ and ‘florals’ may not seem like they are two concepts that go together, but at Prada the dark, moody hues made the Japanese-inspired florals really pop.
From red poppies to black & white dandelion silhouettes, these florals were modern and dramatic rather than your usual hippie-inspired, Spring-appropriate florals.
Fendi:
Printed and colorblocked separates, dresses, and outerwear marched down the Fendi runway in colors from black & white to yellow, brown, and blue.
While there were a few solid-colored frocks among the looks sent down the catwalk, it was the dramatic and eye-catching futuristic prints that really caught my eye. The exaggerated silhouettes and interesting draping, folding, and tailoring were also outstanding.
Moschino:
The Moschino collection was absolutely killer! I’m a huge fan of mod-inspired looks and this collection was all about the 60’s – From amazingly flattering black & white pieces to swoon-worthy brightly colored prints & stripes.
The dramatic, embellished silver sandals, the retro hats, oversized sunnies, shift dresses, and chic, colorful jumpsuits & rompers with contrasting colored piping were all totally wearable. The separates and dresses had a great retro vibe but were still totally wearable for a modern girl if styled right!
Dolce & Gabbana:
Bright, fun & kitschy – Just the way we like it!
The old school Italian themed show was full of fun colors, extravagant prints, stripes, oversized earrings, scarves, and the classic, retro silhouettes that the pair do so well. It was interesting, eye-catching, and wearable.
Roberto Cavalli:
This primarily black & white collection included hints of pink, green, and orange among the dreamy crystal, gem, and jewel-encrusted dresses, gowns, and slim suits.
From delicate lace, mesh, and sheer fabrics in crisp white to abstract florals in palest pastels to dramatic beaded pieces in black. Slinky, sexy, and dramatic – These designs were simultaneously powerful and delicate, a feat few designers can manage.
Marni:
Though there were bold patterns featured in the Marni collection, there were also great white, and solid colored separates and dresses, all in the preferred, exaggerated silhouette of Consuelo Castiglioni.
Wooden brooches and ankle-strap platform sandals were also featured, both adding a down-to-earth feel to the collection. What I liked best were the cocoon -haped coats in bright prints and the peplum adorned dresses.
Gucci:
Think PINK! The Gucci show opened with a handful of bright pink looks, followed by blue, green, and yellow before the final black & white evening looks.
Brilliant colors, retro 70’s styles, and flattering, womanly silhouettes. The collection was dramatic and eye-catching while still being fun and wearable. The whole affaire was bold and sexy, one of my favorite collections!
MaxMara:
The relaxed, Out of Africa style collection from MaxMara showcased slouchy knits, shirt dresses, safari inspired outerwear, and a host of somber colored prints, plaids, and stripes.
They delivered a collection of easy, low-key separates that could easily be paired together or mixed n’ matched with other pieces that you already have in your wardrobe.
Giorgio Armani:
This collection was all about shimmering, shiny, science fiction-inspired fabrics, textures, and colors. Silvery blue-grays, tie-dye inspired aquas, and sparkling navy were all heavily featured.
The flowy, somewhat exaggerated silhouettes were universally flattering and the chic, simple sandals were pure Armani. I always love Giorgio’s habit of sending two girls at a time down the runway, such a fun way to space things!
Versus:
This was a fun, bright, playful extravaganza – From candy-like prints & patterns to vibrant pinks, yellows & blues to cheeky silhouettes & fabrics.
I especially liked the interesting fabrics and textures that Christopher Kane showcased, as well as the use of exposed zippers and the fun prints. It was a really youthful and energetic collection of pieces.
Missoni:
The knits that marched down the runway for Missoni spanned the color spectrum – From crisp whites to playful corals to Springy greens & blues. Taste the rainbow!
The breezy dresses and structured separates were wearable and chic – Perfect for a Spring full of exotic locations, days spent reading by the pool, or picking your way through foreign flea markets. They had a rich feel to them, like a luxurious vacation to far away lands come to life!
Sources: Style.com, Fashionologie, The Stylist, & Tom & Lorenzo
Previous Milan Collections: Milan Fashion Week Fall 2012 – Street Style & Front Row Fashion, Milan Fashion Week Fall 2012, Milan Fashion Week Spring 2012 – Street Style & Front Row Fashion, Milan Fashion Week Spring 2012 – Part I & Milan Fashion Week Spring 2012 – Part II.
Additional reviews, photographs, shows, and videos: Fashionologie’s Bags! The Best From Milan’s Spring 2013 Runways, Harper’s Bazaar’s Milan Fashion Week Spring 2013 Looks & Derek Blasberg’s Insta-Diary From The Fashion Week(s).
What’s your favorite designer from the Milan Fashion Week lineup? Do you look forward to any shows season after season?
Looks of the Week
I’ve got some great shots for you guys this week – From fashion bloggers like yours truly to red carpet premieres to model street style. So without further ado, let’s see what the fabulous ladies are wearing out and about these days!
I very literally stopped everything I was doing when I stumbled on these photos. This is one of the best shots I've seen in ages. Chic, well put together, a little bit retro, and styled to perfection. I wouldn't change a single thing and I'd take it all! 🙂
This is such a clean, chic look. Black and white always comes across as crisp, and I love the addition of the gorgeous Mulberry bag. Those patent-tipped pumps are pretty killer too!
I'm not a short-wearer, I like them, but I don't wear them. When I see pictures like this I have to rethink. This is such an adorable outfit. These shorts are incredibly cute and flattering, love the chain detail in front, and the star blouse is a great choice to pair with them. I especially love the dramatic gold cuff.
It's not quite a red carpet but newbie Taylor Schilling stunned in Calvin Klein. This is a great example of how to not wear a boring black dress! The detailing is gorgeous and her accessories are right on. J'ADORE that cuff!
Gorgeous! Just, gorgeous! I love the dress, I'm a huge fan of pleats right now. The color is striking and that belt is the greatest. And who would have thought to add smoking flats? Tres chic!
If all of the unusual Stella McCartney dresses appearing on the red carpet lately haven't been to your taste, this might just change your mind. Its fun and funky, but really cute and chic. KILLER Alexander Wang Resort 2012 bag!
Mix Master! This is such a great combination of colors, from the pale floral pants to the brilliant canary yellow pea coat to the mostly neutral heels.
This color combination is phenomenal, the cropped pants are the perfect shade to set off her top and that hat is too cute. Keeping the accessories more neutral - black & metallic - was a good choice as well, they finish the look without upstaging the central three pieces.
I love the distinctly different styles of these girls side-by-side. They're both wearing outstanding coats, but they're totally different. Alana is a bit preppy with her exposed collar, clean lines, and bright blue jeans. While Kate is funky and adorable in her fur-trimmed parka. J'adore!
I love a good monochromatic look and this one is especially nice because the pale yellow/grey combination is so unusual. I love those pants too, they're really cute, though you probably have to be 6 feet tall to wear them...
Both Jess Weixler (L) & Riley Keough (R) look great here - These looks are chic, youthful, and well put together. Well done ladies!
I love Peter Pan collars and day clutches so I was immediately drawn to this look. But upon closer inspection I realized that I also loved her velveteen platforms and adorable white lace skirt. So cute!
Milan Fashion Week Fall 2012
While I am dying to attend New York Fashion Week and seeing the Paris shows (and attending the Vogue costume party!) would be a dream come true, there is a special place in my heart for Milan Fashion Week. Not only do I love Italy and Italian fashion, a large part of my personal style was developed when I was 21 and living in Rome so I personal relate.
Shall we start the Milan Fashion Week Fall 2012 coverage off on a funky note? Here we go…
According to designer Christopher Kane and his benefactor Donatella Versace, the Versus show look the original center of punk and grunge as its muse – the area known as Camden in London. The collection composed primarily of dresses came out in deep cranberry, cobalt blue, fuchsia, blue and yellow, all with a little bit of a rock n’ roll. flair to them.
The leather details & mini skirts, lace-up pants, cut outs, sheer panels and over-the-knee boots embraced the edgier side of the collection while there was still something soft in the prints, cocoon coats and babydoll dresses. The Versus girl clearly knows how to have a good time, but also has a sweet side.
Drama Drama Drama. The Versace show was a little bit Marilyn Manson and a little bit Girt With The Dragon Tattoo. Donatella showed everything from a studded black leather dress to a corset covered in a giant blue crystal crucifix to neon yellow halters to vinyl trimmed fish net tights to chain mail and buckle-covered combat boots. All worn with Rooney Mara’s über short, blunt bangs.
Dramatic and eye-catching, that’s for sure. The devil, so to speak, was in the details though. The studded leather bags were gorgeous, up close the embroidered crucifixes almost looked like flowers, the giant belt buckles had a superhero-style V in the center and the chain mail details were extraordinarily intricate and beautifully made.
You can see more pictures here and watch the runway show here.
Moschino was fun, youthful and cute. Bandleader jackets paired with cheerleader skirts and beehives? In bright yellow, red and blue? Only Moschino could pull that off in Milan, that’s for sure. But pull it off Rossella Jardini did.
Her irreverent collection also included black velvet Stetsons, military-style double-breasted thick wool pea coats, adorably retro shift dresses in black & white, fun checks, houndstooth & plaid, and some good old-fashioned gold Italian embroidery.
For more pictures check out Fashionologie.
Per usual the Roberto Cavalli show was all about glitz and glamour. Vibrant animal prints, shimmering sequins, iridescent scales, fur and feathers, embroidery and brocades… All the over-the-top lux that Mr. Cavalli loves. The details of this collection were really breathtaking. The tailoring and hand-stitching and attention to every tiny facet of the clothing and accessories. Truly impressive.
My favorite pieces were the leopard print lace-up booties, purple elbow-length leather gloves, the brushed velvet-looking cropped jackets and the gold sequined peplum cocktail dress.
The unquestionable highlight of this show? Miss Naomi Campbell closed the show!
Leather & lace. The Salvatore Ferragamo collection can be summed up in two words – leather & lace. Massimiliano Giornetti showed gorgeous looks in contrasting fabrics, cuts and moods. Tough, military-inspired belted jackets paired with soft, flowy skirts in chiffon and lace. Gorgeous knee-length coats with brass buttons worn over lacy and sheer tops. Chunky knits with leather skirts and pants.
The jackets and coats were by far my favorite pieces of the collection. The buttons and details on the collars and pockets were divine. You can get a feel from looking at them that the designer does menswear as well.
The Giorgio Armani collection titled “Easy Chic” ran the gamut from sexy grey suits to brightly patterned separates to sherbet colored dresses, all worn with wide-brimmed hats set at a jaunty angle and fingerless gloves in plaid and leopard print. It was a surprisingly youthful and lackadaisical show compared to what we’ve come to expect from Giorgio Armani, but still appealing to his usual sophisticated clientele.
You can see more pictures over at Fashionology.
The dark and ominous collection that Frida Giannini showed for Gucci was sexy and decadent. She used sumptuous fabrics and vibrant colors to highlight the black, olive-green and navy that made up the background pieces. She showed a wide range of pieces – wide leg, flowy pants with a pajama-like feel, dark floral maxi dresses, body-skimming long-sleeved dresses in velvet and brocade, sheer blouses paired with leather pants, embroidered Jodhpurs tucked into knee-high riding boots and dramatic gowns with velvet belts and plunging necklines.
What caught my eye most were the extras. The soft wool capes, glossy patent leather bags, and sexy strappy heels.
You can see a video of the Gucci runway show here and more pictures here, or read The Cut’s thoughts about the dark-hued collection here.
Marni was all about color this season rather than the fun, cheeky prints that Consuelo Castiglioni usually sends down the runways of Milan. But don’t worry, there was still plenty of the lovable quirk Marni is known for. Outerwear, separates and dresses marched out in reds, blues, yellows and black & white, all with a slight retro feel.
I liked the white tights paired with gold-tipped Mary Jane’s, the drop waisted belted coats, I also loved the blunt Vidal Sassoon bangs, too cute.
The Sartorialist has more pictures here and you can see the runway video on Style.com.
Angela Missoni’s Fall 2012 collection for Missoni was all about Mother Nature and the great outdoors. She evoked this theme by pairing the traditional Missoni knits with other fabrics, leathers and furs to create layered looks that appeared to be made from bark and leaves and stone.
The marbling on the knits and the tightly wrapped layers were quite beautiful, at once both traditional Missoni and innovative.
You can see these earthy knits in action here.
The Dolce & Gabbana collection was intricate and sumptuous, filled with dramatic gold detailing, lace accents, sheer panels, tiaras-like lavishly beaded headbands, exaggerated earrings, dark hued Baroque inspired florals, cacoon shaped capes and lace knee-high socks.
Overall the show was dramatic and surprising. The ornate gilding of the clothes created almost a Papal feel while the sheer lace and tiered white dresses were a combination of innocence and understated sexuality with a old-world influence.
You can see all the drama in motion here or see more photos at Fashionology.
Gone was the vintage feel from her Pre-Fall 2012 collection, gone were the whimsical prints and floaty silhouettes from her Spring 2012 ready-To-Wear show. Alberta Ferretti’s Fall 2012 show was more masculine than we traditionally expect from her and more overtly sexy – with sheer blouses, leather body-con dresses and strategically placed translucent panels on gowns.
Alberta Ferretti always delivers beautiful, wearable dresses – my favorites here had layers of paper-thin, textured chiffon – but this season she also gave us gorgeous outerwear. Some in masculine pinstripes, some belted, some with leather collars, some with shearling trim, some hip length and some floor length.
FabSugar has more pictures here or you can see the photos on Black Studded Fashion.
Giorgio Armani called his Fall 2012 Ready-To-Wear collection for Emporio Armani “Little Winter Follies” but I didn’t see many follies. The show was awash in color for fall, in addition to black & white, there were splashes of brilliant coral, bright cobalt blue and luminous purple. Yes, each look was composed of many pieces and the styling was perhaps borderline excessive, but when you took apart the individual pieces there was a lot of sharp, wearable clothing.
I absolutely LOVED the stylish young French lady vibe from the collection, especially the first section full of blacks, whites and greys. The cute little hats, smart but fun blazers with lacy hems or black on black polka dots, chic bags, gloves & tights and comfortable flat shoes were mouth-watering!
Need more Armani in your life? FabSugar and Fashionology have you covered.
The Bottega Veneta show was all about dark elegance. From beautifully tailored coats and skirt suits in black, navy and a somber dark purple to sexy, body skimming dresses in black, cream, lavender and brilliant prints – some had demure capsleeves & boatneck collars while others had dramatic, plunging necklines.
There were plenty of details worth getting a better look at as well – bright crystal embellishments, large retro brooches, stiff looking knee-high riding boots, feathery chiffon boleros, abstract florals and bright plaids, sleek elbow-length leather gloves and ankle boots and strappy pumps over visible socks. Oh, and a collection of handbags that I would KILL for.
You can see more pictures from the Bottega Veneta show here and check out the runway video here.
Fendi was all about mixing the unexpected in interesting and new ways. Black leather with brown wool, navy tights with a midnight black dress, grey snake-skin leggings with a black patent crocodile skirt, contrasting colored spats on ankle boots, skirts composed of pleats and silk or leather, and giant prize-fighter style belts over sleek fabrics.
Want to see these looks in motion? Check out the runway show here or see more pictures at FabSugar or from Garance Dore.
Prada’s Fall 32012 collection was heavy on the outerwear, even the dresses and long, draping tops had a coat-like quality about them. The tailoring and fabrics of this show were divine, the intricacies beautiful and timeless. The sequins, stones, embroidery and embellishments on the clothes gave them almost a vintage-feel while the hair and makeup evoked a futuristic reference.
I really enjoyed the bright retro patterned fabrics and the cropped pantsuits. Very chic. If you’re dying for more, you can watch the runway video or scan more pictures.
The scene at MaxMara was sleek, monochromatic and masculine, and as always the suiting and outerwear was to die for. The show started with olive-green then seamlessly transitioned through black, camel, white and grey. The feel of the collection was a little bit military and a little bit sailor, with stripes, aviator jackets and caps, peacoats and greave-like sock & buckle accoutrement on the legs.
I loved the incredibly soft looking coats, worn open with popped collars, but I was absolutely smitten with the silky, loosely draping pants – in both cropped and full length. They were absolutely stunning!
Fashionology has more pictures or you can watch the show in action and see why I’m dying for a pair – or ten – of those pants.
The last show for Raf Simons at Jil Sander received a standing ovation on Saturday, much deserved adulation for the designer after seven years at the label. The collection was filled to the brim with beautiful coats and dresses, from the palest ballerina whites & pinks to black, navy, bold crimson and shimmery tinfoil silver.
The dresses were classic and body conscious while the coats had a much larger and more dramatic silhouette, mostly without buttons or ties, loosely draping or even held closed by the models. I loved the clean lines and that way color was used to make a statement rather than prints or layering. My absolute favorite part? The two strap heels that look like they were inspired by point shoes.
The whole collection looked like it could have been tailor-made for Audrey Hepburn’s turn as a runway model in Funny Face.
You can see this beautiful runway show here or more photos from FabSugar over here.
In the mood for more from the Italian runways? Check out the top looks from Harper’s Bazaar and Harper’s Bazaar UK, or you can see photos or videos from other shows that I didn’t have time to review: Etro, Emilio Pucci, Just Cavalli & Moschino Cheap & Chic.
Or you can check out just how far all of these Italian designers have come since their last collections: Milan Fashion Week Spring 2012 – Part I, Milan Fashion Week Spring 2012 – Part II and Milan Fashion Week Fall 2011.
Be sure to keep an eye out for Moi Contre La Vie’s Giveaway after Paris Fashion Week!
*** Please note that I do not advocate the use of fur in fashion and personally make an effort not to wear or carry fur, exotic skins or leather. I believe that in this day in age there are many beautiful alternatives to these products which are cruelty-free and should be utilized instead.
Looks of the Week
Pretty! Pretty! Pretty!
Welcome back to Fashion Monday, we’ve got quite a bit to get through this afternoon, believe me. 2012 Oscar after parties, red carpets, movie premieres and good old fashion street style snaps.
Perfect Spring look! I love the mixture of stripes and black & white florals, simple but chic combination that we've been seeing lately.
A brightly striped dress with a pink blazer & combat boots? A surprisingly great combination. Combat boots with a slight feminine twist are all the rage right now.
Another great look from Lookbook.nu - I like the rolled black pants with all of the layers on top, it's a silhouette that can be spiced up in many different ways and is flattering for most people.
Long-time model turned actress Amber Valletta wore a gorgeous, bright coral sheath that accentuated her slim figure. Could have used some standout costume jewelry though...
Its sleek and flattering, and suits her red carpet personality to a T. What more could you ask for from Roons?
Kate knows what suits her and frequently sticks to a mermaid silhouette for her gowns, and while this isn't a huge departure for her, the pale icy blue hue is really stunning.
I really liked Anne Heche's Zac Posen dress - the sleeves, neckline and slightly flared were all great touches. Would have been even better in a vibrant color I bet.
I adore the idea of a suit on the red carpet and this Giorgio Armani version is an inspired choice. I especially like the white piping, it keeps the look from being boring or too business-y.
I love the unexpected when it comes to red carpet fashion. It's always fun when someone has the courage to mix things up, which is just what Kate Beckinsale did with this draping fuchsia Diane Von Furstenberg jumpsuit. Brava!
Zoe proved she's as ready for Spring as I am in this sweet floral frock. Balmain is frequently a little bit punk or rock n' roll so I was surprised that this light & airy dress was one of their creations.
I'm not normally an advocate for bow ties, but I couldn't help but love the satin piping & vest here. Well done.
Sleek and sexy isn't just for the ladies! You've got to love a man in a perfectly tailored suit.
Barney (aka Neal Patrick Harris) and his adorable husband looked elegant and well styled for the Elton John after party.
The most talked about look from the Vanity Fair part was definitely Kate Bosworth's Prabal Gurung Fall 2012 cocktail dress. Absolutely amazing.
As much as I hate peekaboo hemlines I gasped when this photo popped up. Striking & unusual - Zoe's never one to fade into the background. The jeweled neckline & delicate sleeves make the dress appear almost demure despite the sheer layering.
Miss Victoria vamped it up Posh Spice-style in one of her own designs. Tres chic!
I'm a sucker for polka dots and was really struck by Elizabeth Banks's peacock inspired Chadwick Bell gown. All about the drama!
The number of people who can pull off an exposed bra on the red carpet can be counted on one hand. Diane, luckily, is one of them. Wow!
Gorgeous! Can you ever go wrong with a sleek black Gucci gown? I especially like her gold collar and the dramatic belt.
Sleek and stunning. Rosie can really kill in complex, fashion-forward gowns but she's a breath of fresh air in a simple look like this one.
Anna Paquin's Emilio Pucci dress was dramatic and head-turning, I think she chose right by going with a cocktail-length rather than floor-length gown.
There weren't a lot of black gowns on the red carpet last night, lots of jewel tones, pastels and whites, but not much black. Nina Dobrev made a splash in this simple J.Mendel gown, I especially like the cut-outs at the shoulders.
While Karolina Kurkova doesn't need much to stand out, in a sea of gowns her sequin encrusted silver Armani jumpsuit was quite a sight. The red velvet shoes were a brilliant choice.
BAFTA & Grammy Goodness
While the rest of us (or maybe just me) were wishing we were in New York for Fashion Week the rich and pretty were busy giving us something new to talk about. 🙂 The 2012 BAFTA Awards (British Academy of Film and Television Arts) were this weekend and the Brits were out en masse – along with the rest of Hollywood. Gowns gowns gowns!
Berenice Marlohe looked slim & statuesque in white Dior. Stunning!
I mistakenly assumed that Miss Holliday Grainger's dress was Elie Saab, but who can blame me? This beautiful gown is actually Versace. Lovely!
Christina Ricci was a vision in gold Givenchy with a dramatic slit. Her earrings were my favorite of the evening.
Vivienne Westwood isn't who I automatically think of as the go-to designer for Meryl Streep, but this is virtually perfect. Brava!
Is it just me or is this just adorably British? Colin Firth looked sauve as always in Giorgio Armani & Livia Giuggioli was perfectly chic in Sir Paul Smith. Love her shoes!
The next red carpet event on the way to the Oscars was – drum roll please – The 2012 Grammy Awards. One thing that I love about the Grammy’s is that no one plays it safe. It’s all about impact. Remember Jennifer Lopez in Versace? Lil Kim in… Um… Barely anything?
Exhibit A – This is a Grammy’s gown.
Am I right? Now on with the show…
Simple, chic & classic - You can't miss with black Armani. Perfect.
Lily Aldridge chose the perfect gown - Don't all expectant mothers wish that they could wear flowing Gucci during their pregnancies?
Rihanna's sexy black Armani gown was all about the drama with gorgeous gold cuffs & bangles, and a sleek metallic clutch.
Black cutout dresses were all the rage and Gwenyth wore one of my favorites. The severe style suits her and the flashy gold belt was the perfect finishing touch. Dramatic earrings would have been perfect though!
Love love love the back of this Zuhair Murad gown. The high neck and cap sleeves make this a unique look and the bronze & gold detailing is really striking. Way to go Taylor!
This dress is soft & pretty, but still dramatic - quite a feat. I love the earrings & cocktail ring.
Fall 2011 Couture
The Couture shows in Paris always evoke images of sumptuous frivolity for me, I imagine Marie Antoinette as the original Couture It Girl (think Sophia Coppola’s 2006 picture – whatever the film’s critics had to say – the colors, scenery, costumes and settings were sublime). And luckily for us, this year’s shows did not disappoint.
Paris’s Fall 2011 Couture shows took place last week and between the gloriously decadent shows were the usual dinners, parties and openings attended by European jet-setters, fashion insiders, A-listers and Hollywood elite.
Alexis Mabille may have had one of the most unusual (and furred and feathered) muses of the season, taking as his theme the animal fables of La Fontaine. The gowns were adorned with feathers, lace, velvet and fur.
Armani took Japan as his major influence and while he shows some great pants-based looks, I loved how the pale watercolor florals of this sweeping sheath gown complimented the one of a kind Philip Treacy hat.
The 25 look collection presented by Azzedine Alaia was his first couture show in 8 years and ended with a standing ovation. And with looks like this one, who can blame the stunned audience. One guest was even quoted saying: "There's everyone else. Then there's Alaïa."
The Chanel show was all about the tweed suit and while some of the silhouettes may not have been the most wearable, there was a hint of Coco in each and every one. This suit turned gown with an almost ombre color scheme and fingerless gloves was my favorite, it definitely stood out in a predominately dark hued collection.
- My favorite part of the Chanel show? The lacy black barely there masks worn throughout. Ooh la la!
Everyone's favorite fairy god-father did not disappoint this season, Elie Saab showed a gorgeous collection of gowns and cocktail frocks. And while I adored the navy blue gowns, dripping in sequins and lace, this sugary sweet fairytale dress caught my eye. Can't you just imagine Siri Tollerod skipping around a wildflower strew meadow as a nymph from Greek legends?
The Givenchy show was everything I've ever loved about couture. A handful of extraordinarily time-consuming to produce pieces with unbelievable detail and a mix of patterns and fabrics and textures. Even the most jaded of modern consumers would be hard pressed to look at Riccardo Tisci's vision and see anything less than works of art.
Jean Paul Gaultier has built a legacy on producing shocking and provocative runway shows, and this year's retrospective touched on some of his memorable presentations over the years, all with just a touch of Black Swan.
The Valentino show was the perfect mix of fantasy and reality, a collection that combined the delicate gowns of every girl's red carpet dreams and some ornate, but wearable, outerwear and extras. And while gowns in Valentino-red made an appearance, this look really caught my eye. I love the shade and fabric of the coat, the buttons and neckline and the dreamy, far-away look on the model's face.
I love the creamy colors and relaxed lines of these separates (Anne Valerie Hash), especially the top with the slightly ruffled sleeves & dainty buttons.
Bouchra Jarrar's collection was primarily black, white and dove grey, with striking splashes of cobalt blue. I'm a big fan of suits, so I love it when a designer shows interesting or unique details like the neckline on this cropped jacket.
Bill Gaytten for Christian Dior. Holy overkill Batman!
I love the lines and exquisite simplicity of this frock, embellished perfectly at the hem, neckline, sleeves and waist. Floral applique pumps are the perfect finishing touch.
Ti Amo Milano
This photo is courtesy of the brilliant Garance Dore
Milan fashion week was truly a beautiful affaire. Dark, romantic, womanly and perfectly seductive, all of the trademarks we’ve come to expect from the big Italian design houses. Suiting, yummy menswear inspired designs, ladylike cuts and gorgeous outerwear were all present.
Marni showed a slightly more minimalist style this season, and although the clothes retained Marni's trademark quirk, it was full of very wearable pieces.
Dolce & Gabbana presented a new take on the boy-meets-girl look by showing models in masculine clothing with side burns added for the occasion. And while D&G's did use some of their signature animal prints, stars were the print de jour.
Armani's theme was "Boudoir" and this suit showcases that hint of bedroom in the satin and swing of the cropped pants.
Fendi showed the color-blocking trend to perfection, emphasized through accessories & outerwear: Mary Janes, colored tights, headbands, sumptuous coats and structured bags.
Prada showed models in clothes that were a little bit mod, a little bit doll-like, and a little bit dreamy. And don't forget the Mary Janes with thick socks!
Alberta Ferretti's daywear came in bright colors and covetable silhouettes, all paired with over-the-knee velvet boots and chic sideswept hairstyles.
Opaque tights, T-Strap heels, formal updos and 60s flairs evoked Hitchcock's cool blonds at the beginning of the Bottega Veneta collection.
While the darker & more deconstructed fabrics later at Bottega conjured a sartorial juxtaposition between Grace Kelly & Ms. Havisham.
Jill Sander's show continued to play upon the Hitchcockian theme with this sportswear inspired collection that called to mind Audrey Hepburn's ski resort look in the first scene of Charade.
Both the Moschino and the Moschino Cheap & Chic shows were fun, with a dose of funk. Bows, structured ladylike bags, loafers, opaque tights and socks, plaids & nautical stripes all made an appearance. This look was one of my favorites from the two shows, I like the combination of a silky, flirty skirt with a wintry, knobby knit.
But the runaway hit from Milan was the Ferragamo show, filled with curve hugging silhouettes, pin stripes, pencil skirts, suits & dresses that all said: “I am woman, hear me roar!”
Trends to keep an eye on for next fall: boudoir laces & silks for cocktail frocks, 60’s cuts, attention to accessories & outerwear, thick tights, stockings and socks worn with heels and suits, suits, suits!
Ciao for now!
Moi Contre La Vie 