Milan Fashion Week Fall 2012
While I am dying to attend New York Fashion Week and seeing the Paris shows (and attending the Vogue costume party!) would be a dream come true, there is a special place in my heart for Milan Fashion Week. Not only do I love Italy and Italian fashion, a large part of my personal style was developed when I was 21 and living in Rome so I personal relate.
Shall we start the Milan Fashion Week Fall 2012 coverage off on a funky note? Here we go…
According to designer Christopher Kane and his benefactor Donatella Versace, the Versus show look the original center of punk and grunge as its muse – the area known as Camden in London. The collection composed primarily of dresses came out in deep cranberry, cobalt blue, fuchsia, blue and yellow, all with a little bit of a rock n’ roll. flair to them.
The leather details & mini skirts, lace-up pants, cut outs, sheer panels and over-the-knee boots embraced the edgier side of the collection while there was still something soft in the prints, cocoon coats and babydoll dresses. The Versus girl clearly knows how to have a good time, but also has a sweet side.
Drama Drama Drama. The Versace show was a little bit Marilyn Manson and a little bit Girt With The Dragon Tattoo. Donatella showed everything from a studded black leather dress to a corset covered in a giant blue crystal crucifix to neon yellow halters to vinyl trimmed fish net tights to chain mail and buckle-covered combat boots. All worn with Rooney Mara’s über short, blunt bangs.
Dramatic and eye-catching, that’s for sure. The devil, so to speak, was in the details though. The studded leather bags were gorgeous, up close the embroidered crucifixes almost looked like flowers, the giant belt buckles had a superhero-style V in the center and the chain mail details were extraordinarily intricate and beautifully made.
You can see more pictures here and watch the runway show here.
Moschino was fun, youthful and cute. Bandleader jackets paired with cheerleader skirts and beehives? In bright yellow, red and blue? Only Moschino could pull that off in Milan, that’s for sure. But pull it off Rossella Jardini did.
Her irreverent collection also included black velvet Stetsons, military-style double-breasted thick wool pea coats, adorably retro shift dresses in black & white, fun checks, houndstooth & plaid, and some good old-fashioned gold Italian embroidery.
For more pictures check out Fashionologie.
Per usual the Roberto Cavalli show was all about glitz and glamour. Vibrant animal prints, shimmering sequins, iridescent scales, fur and feathers, embroidery and brocades… All the over-the-top lux that Mr. Cavalli loves. The details of this collection were really breathtaking. The tailoring and hand-stitching and attention to every tiny facet of the clothing and accessories. Truly impressive.
My favorite pieces were the leopard print lace-up booties, purple elbow-length leather gloves, the brushed velvet-looking cropped jackets and the gold sequined peplum cocktail dress.
The unquestionable highlight of this show? Miss Naomi Campbell closed the show!
Leather & lace. The Salvatore Ferragamo collection can be summed up in two words – leather & lace. Massimiliano Giornetti showed gorgeous looks in contrasting fabrics, cuts and moods. Tough, military-inspired belted jackets paired with soft, flowy skirts in chiffon and lace. Gorgeous knee-length coats with brass buttons worn over lacy and sheer tops. Chunky knits with leather skirts and pants.
The jackets and coats were by far my favorite pieces of the collection. The buttons and details on the collars and pockets were divine. You can get a feel from looking at them that the designer does menswear as well.
The Giorgio Armani collection titled “Easy Chic” ran the gamut from sexy grey suits to brightly patterned separates to sherbet colored dresses, all worn with wide-brimmed hats set at a jaunty angle and fingerless gloves in plaid and leopard print. It was a surprisingly youthful and lackadaisical show compared to what we’ve come to expect from Giorgio Armani, but still appealing to his usual sophisticated clientele.
You can see more pictures over at Fashionology.
The dark and ominous collection that Frida Giannini showed for Gucci was sexy and decadent. She used sumptuous fabrics and vibrant colors to highlight the black, olive-green and navy that made up the background pieces. She showed a wide range of pieces – wide leg, flowy pants with a pajama-like feel, dark floral maxi dresses, body-skimming long-sleeved dresses in velvet and brocade, sheer blouses paired with leather pants, embroidered Jodhpurs tucked into knee-high riding boots and dramatic gowns with velvet belts and plunging necklines.
What caught my eye most were the extras. The soft wool capes, glossy patent leather bags, and sexy strappy heels.
You can see a video of the Gucci runway show here and more pictures here, or read The Cut’s thoughts about the dark-hued collection here.
Marni was all about color this season rather than the fun, cheeky prints that Consuelo Castiglioni usually sends down the runways of Milan. But don’t worry, there was still plenty of the lovable quirk Marni is known for. Outerwear, separates and dresses marched out in reds, blues, yellows and black & white, all with a slight retro feel.
I liked the white tights paired with gold-tipped Mary Jane’s, the drop waisted belted coats, I also loved the blunt Vidal Sassoon bangs, too cute.
The Sartorialist has more pictures here and you can see the runway video on Style.com.
Angela Missoni’s Fall 2012 collection for Missoni was all about Mother Nature and the great outdoors. She evoked this theme by pairing the traditional Missoni knits with other fabrics, leathers and furs to create layered looks that appeared to be made from bark and leaves and stone.
The marbling on the knits and the tightly wrapped layers were quite beautiful, at once both traditional Missoni and innovative.
You can see these earthy knits in action here.
The Dolce & Gabbana collection was intricate and sumptuous, filled with dramatic gold detailing, lace accents, sheer panels, tiaras-like lavishly beaded headbands, exaggerated earrings, dark hued Baroque inspired florals, cacoon shaped capes and lace knee-high socks.
Overall the show was dramatic and surprising. The ornate gilding of the clothes created almost a Papal feel while the sheer lace and tiered white dresses were a combination of innocence and understated sexuality with a old-world influence.
You can see all the drama in motion here or see more photos at Fashionology.
Gone was the vintage feel from her Pre-Fall 2012 collection, gone were the whimsical prints and floaty silhouettes from her Spring 2012 ready-To-Wear show. Alberta Ferretti’s Fall 2012 show was more masculine than we traditionally expect from her and more overtly sexy – with sheer blouses, leather body-con dresses and strategically placed translucent panels on gowns.
Alberta Ferretti always delivers beautiful, wearable dresses – my favorites here had layers of paper-thin, textured chiffon – but this season she also gave us gorgeous outerwear. Some in masculine pinstripes, some belted, some with leather collars, some with shearling trim, some hip length and some floor length.
FabSugar has more pictures here or you can see the photos on Black Studded Fashion.
Giorgio Armani called his Fall 2012 Ready-To-Wear collection for Emporio Armani “Little Winter Follies” but I didn’t see many follies. The show was awash in color for fall, in addition to black & white, there were splashes of brilliant coral, bright cobalt blue and luminous purple. Yes, each look was composed of many pieces and the styling was perhaps borderline excessive, but when you took apart the individual pieces there was a lot of sharp, wearable clothing.
I absolutely LOVED the stylish young French lady vibe from the collection, especially the first section full of blacks, whites and greys. The cute little hats, smart but fun blazers with lacy hems or black on black polka dots, chic bags, gloves & tights and comfortable flat shoes were mouth-watering!
Need more Armani in your life? FabSugar and Fashionology have you covered.
The Bottega Veneta show was all about dark elegance. From beautifully tailored coats and skirt suits in black, navy and a somber dark purple to sexy, body skimming dresses in black, cream, lavender and brilliant prints – some had demure capsleeves & boatneck collars while others had dramatic, plunging necklines.
There were plenty of details worth getting a better look at as well – bright crystal embellishments, large retro brooches, stiff looking knee-high riding boots, feathery chiffon boleros, abstract florals and bright plaids, sleek elbow-length leather gloves and ankle boots and strappy pumps over visible socks. Oh, and a collection of handbags that I would KILL for.
You can see more pictures from the Bottega Veneta show here and check out the runway video here.
Fendi was all about mixing the unexpected in interesting and new ways. Black leather with brown wool, navy tights with a midnight black dress, grey snake-skin leggings with a black patent crocodile skirt, contrasting colored spats on ankle boots, skirts composed of pleats and silk or leather, and giant prize-fighter style belts over sleek fabrics.
Want to see these looks in motion? Check out the runway show here or see more pictures at FabSugar or from Garance Dore.
Prada’s Fall 32012 collection was heavy on the outerwear, even the dresses and long, draping tops had a coat-like quality about them. The tailoring and fabrics of this show were divine, the intricacies beautiful and timeless. The sequins, stones, embroidery and embellishments on the clothes gave them almost a vintage-feel while the hair and makeup evoked a futuristic reference.
I really enjoyed the bright retro patterned fabrics and the cropped pantsuits. Very chic. If you’re dying for more, you can watch the runway video or scan more pictures.
The scene at MaxMara was sleek, monochromatic and masculine, and as always the suiting and outerwear was to die for. The show started with olive-green then seamlessly transitioned through black, camel, white and grey. The feel of the collection was a little bit military and a little bit sailor, with stripes, aviator jackets and caps, peacoats and greave-like sock & buckle accoutrement on the legs.
I loved the incredibly soft looking coats, worn open with popped collars, but I was absolutely smitten with the silky, loosely draping pants – in both cropped and full length. They were absolutely stunning!
Fashionology has more pictures or you can watch the show in action and see why I’m dying for a pair – or ten – of those pants.
The last show for Raf Simons at Jil Sander received a standing ovation on Saturday, much deserved adulation for the designer after seven years at the label. The collection was filled to the brim with beautiful coats and dresses, from the palest ballerina whites & pinks to black, navy, bold crimson and shimmery tinfoil silver.
The dresses were classic and body conscious while the coats had a much larger and more dramatic silhouette, mostly without buttons or ties, loosely draping or even held closed by the models. I loved the clean lines and that way color was used to make a statement rather than prints or layering. My absolute favorite part? The two strap heels that look like they were inspired by point shoes.
The whole collection looked like it could have been tailor-made for Audrey Hepburn’s turn as a runway model in Funny Face.
You can see this beautiful runway show here or more photos from FabSugar over here.
In the mood for more from the Italian runways? Check out the top looks from Harper’s Bazaar and Harper’s Bazaar UK, or you can see photos or videos from other shows that I didn’t have time to review: Etro, Emilio Pucci, Just Cavalli & Moschino Cheap & Chic.
Or you can check out just how far all of these Italian designers have come since their last collections: Milan Fashion Week Spring 2012 – Part I, Milan Fashion Week Spring 2012 – Part II and Milan Fashion Week Fall 2011.
Be sure to keep an eye out for Moi Contre La Vie’s Giveaway after Paris Fashion Week!
*** Please note that I do not advocate the use of fur in fashion and personally make an effort not to wear or carry fur, exotic skins or leather. I believe that in this day in age there are many beautiful alternatives to these products which are cruelty-free and should be utilized instead.
New York Fashion Week Fall 2012
As much as I would love to review each & every show from the Fall 2012 New York Fashion Week – a girl’s gotta sleep. So in the next few posts I’ll share some of my favorite shows, looks, and moments, and at the bottom you can find more information & links about the shows that I couldn’t review.
I always look forward to Alice+Olivia because I can see myself in all of their clothes and their presentations are always bright, pretty and fun. This season the outstanding looks were showcased on a dramatic black & white rug in a chic Baroque-style sitting room – a busy, but interesting background for the pieces.
From separates to cocktail frocks to full length gowns, there’s a little something for everyone. I love the black, white & grey tweed and wool outerwear almost as much as the glitzy dresses – always the highlight with everything from brocade florals to sleek n’ sexy black to glamorous sequins, feathers and faux fur. Tres chic!
I’m not going to lie, I’ve been hooked since Rachel Zoe’s very first show because not only are her looks right on trend, they’re flattering and wearable – I even bought this coat after eyeing it for over a year. This season was no exception and her first runway show was all about the swinging 60’s in London with a splash of rock n’ roll – a common theme this week.
The looks were fun, sexy & playful with faux fur & leather, pantsuits, velvet, pleating, double-breasted buttons, sequins & over-the-knee suede boots. I’ll take one of each please!
{Tom & Lorenzo and Black Studded Fashion agreed, you can also read her post-fashion week interview with Harper’s Bazaar here}
Milly is another show that I look forward to because I know that some of the pieces will end up in my closet (at this point I should say thank you to my gorgeous & stylish cousin Heather for turning me onto Milly – definitely a defining moment!). And Michelle Smith did not disappoint this season, the show was full of fun colors, interesting patterns and quirky silhouettes.
Adorable double-breasted coats, gloves in black, leopard and blue, sheer tights, turtlenecks, A-line minis, sheer blouses with contrasting collars, petal skirts, flashes of neon, retro-style cocktail dresses, wide belts and pointy-toed pumps.
The grey petal dress with the pockets worn over a black turtleneck and gloves {above right} was definitely my favorite look – Can’t you just see that walking down the street?
Diane Von Furstenberg’s show was sexy and powerful, the DVF woman she celebrated this season was glamorous and sophisticated in bold colored body-worshipping dresses.
I loved the short sleeves paired with opera-length gloves, the belted coats with slim pants, the colorblocking separates, the ankle-strap heels and the sweet prints. The minimal makeup and side-parted hair were the perfect finishing touch.
{Check out this video from FabSugar to see these gorgeous clothes in action!}
If you live for elegant ladylike looks, you’re probably a fan of Victoria Beckham’s classic designs. This season was all about preppy curve-hugging jersey and sporty form-fitting outerwear, paired – interestingly enough – with cute combat boots & thick socks.
This season also marked the first show for Victoria’s lower priced collection called Victoria by Victoria Beckham – Which according to Net-a-Porter was entirely sold out before even getting online. These dresses are simple and pretty, not overly complex or intricate, just basic shift and drop-waisted frocks that you can dress up or down.
{See the video from the Victoria Beckham show here and check out a video of the designer hanging out with Anna Wintour here}
Rachel Roy took the elements as her muse and showed a collection in deep, earthy colors and fun, modern silhouettes. I especially liked the shades of purple used for the last portion of the show, the brightly colored cropped gloves, Oxford booties and wide belts on the coats and separates.
Carolina Herrera’s show was everything we’ve come to expect over the years – glamour and sophistication, with a splash of decadence. She showed everything from wool A-line skirts to cropped boleros to belted strapless dresses to silk screened ball gowns to swoon-worthy gloves, shoes & accessories.
The colors and fabrics were beautiful and interesting while the silhouettes maintained their usual classic and ladylike flair. I especially loved the black & white striped print with the bright florals splashed across. Gorgeous.
{You can find more pictures from this show here}
If you’re in the mood for a little prep J.Crew was the show for you this season. This collection was all about separates and layering, each look had a handful of interesting components that could be worn separately or together. And while there were more bright colors and fun prints than in years past, the basic J.Crew asthetic was present throughout.
{You can also check out a video of the show here.}
Patterned sweaters, jewel toned & printed pants, traditional outerwear, plaid and stripes, dresses for work and play and cute cropped sweater coats. How adorable is that blue tweedy look on the right with the orangy red turtleneck?
The 3.1 Phillip Lim show was primarily black, white & grey with splashes of camel, burnt orange and aqua here and there. But above all else, these clothes were oh-so-wearable. Not only could I picture these looks walked down the New York sidewalk outside, I’ve seen versions & variations in the closets of all the chic women I know. Bulky sweaters, chic suits, cigarette pants, tunics, turtlenecks & sweater dresses galore.
Was it innovative and ground breaking? No, but in an economy like this one women prefer to buy classic, well-made pieces that can be worn season after season, rather than something that will be out of style in a few months, and that’s where this collection steps in.
Favorite part? Definitely the t-strap platforms. Come to mama!
Details details details! Marc Jacobs is always a bit eccentric in his presentations and this year was no different. Bundled layers, dramatically exaggerated silhouettes & unconventional mix and matching were the order of the day. And hats that Dr. Seuss would have been proud of. Can’t forget those.
But looking beyond the showmanship and styling you found some really fabulous pieces perfect for Fall – I especially liked the pairing of slim, cropped cigarette pants with bigger proportions on top, the large buttons on the coats and the elaborate pilgrim shoes.
The looks that Tory Burch showed were effortlessly chic and wearable, I could see myself in virtually everything. And as much as I adore seeing the artistry and showmanship of designers like the late Alexander McQueen, there’s something comforting about seeing a collection that can translate easily to real life, and that’s something that Tory Burch excels at.
While the separates, skirts, dresses and perfectly tailored outerwear were to die for, I couldn’t help but drool a little over the extras. Opera-length gloves, structured handbags, lace & patterned tights, floral appliqué collars and low-heeled T-straps.
{You can read Modelinia’s review of the show here}
Zac Posen’s Japanese themed collection was filled to the brim with hip-hugging dresses, jewel toned separates and sumptuous outerwear. His clothes are dramatic and glamorous, you choose this brand when you want to make a statement the moment you walk into a room.
{You can see a video of the runway show here.}
While Posen’s clothes can seem more like art at times than something you’d actually wear – the flared skirts and cut-out bodices were incredibly flattering, as were the gorgeous metallic ankle-strap heels.
Oh Oscar! The Oscar de la Renta show was a fun and youthful twist on his usual prim and proper fare. Shorter hemlines, cheeky color combinations ,and mix n’ match patterns gave the show an interesting twist. The looks were Winterized by adding bulky knit wraps, cropped tweed coats, lace and brocade jackets and even floor-length dusters paired with evening gowns.
The booties and twisted ribbon pumps paired with subtle fish net stockings were divine, as were the jeweled headpieces, brooches and crystal adorned outerwear. I thought that the exaggerated boatneck collars were exceptionally flattering and loved the pale blue – almost reminiscent of Karl’s Spring 2012 Couture collection.
{Need more Oscar? FabSugar & The Fashionista have you covered – both featuring Arizona Muse’s amazing silver Cinderella ball gown}
A post on New York Fashion Week would hardly be complete without a mention of DKNY. The show was all about downtown cool and as usual black was the main hue – this season with touches of dove grey, cranberry and navy. The cropped outerwear paired with an A-line mini skirt was an especially fun and flirty silhouette, that still managed to be a little bit business.
The highlights were the thick leather belts, high collars, opaque black tights, booties & ankle-strap heels, gorgeous handbags, sweet floral prints with harder pieces, brights paired with black and tough biker girl leather edges added to outerwear. I would wear virtually any of these pieces, can’t wait for them to hit stores!
The details and extras were really well-chosen for this show, I loved everything from the shoes to the accessories to the cuffs and collars added to the jackets & coats.
{You can also see Tom & Lorenzo’s photographs & review here.}
What can you say about Michael Kors? The man himself is a legend (Studio 54 ring a bell anyone?) and the brand that he’s created is know for its clean lines, flattering styles, and all-American appeal. And while last year’s big 30th anniversary show was quite the success, this year’s show was hardly a let down. The chic country girl in the big city styles were fun but practical – MK’s MO.
The red & black checks, grey wool, black & white flannels, thick knits and dramatic leathers and furs created a backdrop for the story that MK told and the looks were finished off with gloves, skinny belts, thick socks, t-strap heels, clogs, lace up boots and chunky Mary Janes.
{FabSugar has additional photos of the Michael Kors show here or you can see full runway show on GQ Fashion.}
And last but hardly least is Prabal Gurung, one of the most anticipated shows of the season – the Twittersphere (oh how I hate that word) BLEW UP after the new ad campaign with a dark-haired Candice Swanepoel was released and the hype for his Fall 2012 show increased steadily until the big day. From blacks to brilliant cobalt to white to shimmery gold, the looks ranged from severe with dramatic cutouts to youthful with crazy prints.
I thought that the satiny finished trousers were extremely chic and I can’t wait for the multi-strap heels to hit the stores. I’m also predicting that many of these frocks will appear on the red carpets this season. I wouldn’t be able to resist if I had access to them!
{Purple DIARY has some more great photos here and the runway video can be viewed here}
{Source, Source, Source & Source}
If you’d like to see more shows there are full New York Fashion Week summaries here and here, or you can see photos or videos of the individual shows here: Tibi, Tracy Reese, Christian Siriano, Jenny Packham, Karen Walker, Chris Benz, Naeem Khan, Betsey Johnson, Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti and Elie Tahari.
All the designers really out did themselves this year. The creativity and artistry of the collections and the presentations really blew me away. Stay tuned for the street style and front row looks, then it’s off to London Fashion Week. Also – Be sure to keep an eye out for Moi Contre La Vie’s post-Fashion Week Giveaway!
*** Please note that I do not advocate the use of fur in fashion and personally make an effort not to wear/carry fur, exotic skins or leather. I believe that in this day in age there are many beautiful alternatives to these products which are cruelty & animal-free and should be utilized in their place.