New York Fashion Week Spring 2013 – Part II
Welcome to post numéro deux from the tents at New York Fashion Week, you can see the first post here and catch up on what you missed – The big names like Oscar de la Renta, Diane Von Furstenberg, and BCBG Max Azria.
Today we’ll be focusing on the secondary lines created by tried and true designers as well as the shows for brands which most of us real people outside of the fabulous fashion industry actually buy and wear and lust after. {Please note that the word “affordable” is being used in a relative context here, we are talking about NYFW not the mall, so take that into consideration.}
Rachel Zoe:
Let’s get this started with one of my favorite collections – the highly styled collection of fabulous 70’s inspired pieces shown by Miss Rachel Zoe. Some accused it of being overstyled, but I enjoyed it for that very reason, it showed you various ways you could wear her pieces – From the handbags, jewelry, hats, belts, shoes, and sunglasses.
Pants and pantsuits were highly featured – From slouchy leather to wide leg trousers to knit jumpsuits. Lots of great outerwear was also featured – leather bombers, blazers, double-breasted satin coats – as well as 70’s staples like tunics, shift dresses, ankle boots, maxi dresses, tuxedo pants, and bohemian shirt dresses and sequins sequins sequins.
J.Crew:
When you’re discussing the wearability of the lines at NYFW, J.Crew is one of the first brands that comes to mind. They always put together a fun, chic, wearable collection. Season after season the clothes are contemporary and on-target, with price tags that us real gals can actually consider.
This season was no different and the separates, suits, and dresses were colorful and covered in great prints. I can already see where multiple pieces will fit into my outfits for Spring – The separates seriously stole my heart. I want all the blazers and all of the cropped, fitted pants in fabulous prints.
10 Crosby Derek Lam:
Derek Lam was so determined to prove that this line was full of real clothes for real girls that he cast a beauty blogger as his model for the Lookbook. These separates and suits are killer and the new line of handbags were showcased to perfection against the ‘too cool for school’ pieces.
Cobalt blue, mixing & matching prints, skins, and leather are clearly the tips to take away from this collection. Oh, and separates separates separates. These shots make me want to run to my closet and practice pairing fun pieces together in interesting new ways.
Rachel Roy:
Easy, wearable separates in breezy silhouettes, bright colors, and fun, whimsical prints. Fitted pantsuits, midi length silk shirt dresses, printed shorts, wide leg 70’s inspired jumpsuits, tailored shorts, and all over prints were all present and accounted for – And all with a hint of pink.
What I adore about Rachel Roy is how each collection has its own distinct feel, but stays in line with her aesthetic and style. Her pieces are always chic and on-trend, but still classic enough to keep in your wardrobe season after season.
Rebecca Minkoff:
Lots of white, florals, and soft colors – A very sweet, Springy collection perfect for the cool California girl. Great denim, floaty, flattering silhouettes, and a mixture of hip shirts, day dresses and separates.
My favorite part of this collection were the variety of chic trousers – They came in slim white, vertical stripes, all-over prints, classic denim, and even white washed overalls.
Milly:
The Milly show almost seemed to be a clash of the Spice Girls – Sports Spice meets Posh Spice. The pieces were made from second skin fabrics and had a fluid, athletic quality to them while the silhouettes were sleek and body conscious.
All-over prints, leather sleeves, lame touches, black mesh, reflective materials, double halter necklines, and clear plastic all gave this collection a bit of an edge that wasn’t there last season. Definitely not for the timid! This show also featured pieces the relatively new handbag line – Specifically the zipper-adorned envelope and oversized day clutches.
Betsey Johnson:
“Girls Just Want To Have Fun!”
Nothing like a ton of 80’s glitz, glamour, and attitude to take the stage while Cindy Lauper belts out one of her most famous hits – All to celebrate the great Betsey Johnson’s 70th birthday. And believe me, that girl still knows how to have fun!
The clothes were just as loud & bright as the musical stylings and were all one-of-a-kind with a fun vintage twist and loads of layering and accessories – Basically the sartorial equivalent of Katy Perry. Just what we’ve come to expect from this unique designer.
Alice+Olivia:
Alice+Olivia is always bright, fun, and a little wild. They’re the clothes the cool girl with a great sense of humor wears because she can always find something that suits her mood and attitude. Eyelet & lace, drop waists, animal prints, sheathes, rompers, shorts suits, mix n’ match separates, and gowns – All with a little retro flare.
Not only did Miss Bendet produce yet another collection where I’d like to get my hands on each and every piece, she’s also created her first handbag line. Like the too cute shoes, they came in every color and style, one to match any outfit you could put together – From totes to oversized shoppers to mini duffles.
3.1 Phillip Lim:
This collection was all about mixing & matching and prints prints prints! Plaid, demure animal prints, stripes, and vibrant florals were mixed effortlessly with colorblocking, patchwork, denim, black leather, and sheer paneling.
The looks were all slouchy and laid-back but still fun and ecclectic through and through – Just what Phillip Lim does best.
Kate Spade:
Bright colors, retro-inspired silhouettes, and fun but ladylike separates and dresses are what the Kate Spade client expects – And this collection for Spring delivered just that.
Mod colorblocking in pastels, bold black & white checkered pieces, bowling bags, retro shades, sweet prints, oversized bows, stripes & florals, ankle strap heels, suits, and great outerwear rounded things out. While all of the pieces paired together in each look may have been fun for the show, you’d probably deconstruct these outfits to find the pieces that you wanted to add to your personal wardrobe.
Tory Burch:
This collection was all about being a world traveler – Someone who picks things up around the world, travels to exotic places, and wants her sense of style to reflect her world experiences. This was picked up not only in the handbags, jewelry, and accessories, but also in the prints, colors, and fabrics.
Sweet prints from nature, eyelet & thick lace, heavy fringe, embroidery, Native American & African beaded accents, leather working, and a plethora of florals, stripes, tie dye, and plaids. It was a unique collection but the fun embellishments and accents made it unique rather than kitchy. I can’t wait to get my hands on the mix n’ match shorts & cropped jacket combinations.
Victoria by Victoria Beckham:
This dress collection was composed primarily of structured shift dresses, knee-length sheaths, and shirt dresses in a variety of prints, colors, and materials – She experimented with delicate lace & eyelet, metallic leather, and whimsical floral and oversized dot prints.
She paired with wide strap sandals and peep-toe tennis shoes, both in a high platform that made them both sporty and Posh. These dresses – minis and knee-length – are breezy, wearable pieces, they could easily be styled with heels or flats and I’d pile on the jewelry to make the look your own.
Z Spoke by Zac Posen:
Zac Posen is all about drama – Whether its showstopping gowns ready for the Oscars red carpet from his main line or chic separates from his secondary line Z Spoke – There’s always a sense of occasion and a melodramatic undertone. And this collection is no different with the aptly themes – Coco Goes To Hollywood.
These clothes are chic, fun, and wearable. They have a cinematic quality that suits both Coco Rocha and the theme – They look like they’re made to be looked at or photographed. And luckily for us his gorgeous Z Spoke handbag line pairs perfectly with these looks. I was a big fan of the textured prints in bold colors, the styling was great too, I would wear some of these looks head-to-toe!
DKNY:
Sleek and sport may not be the first words that come to mind when you think about DKNY, but this collection was pure DKNY – Sexy, confident NYC ladies with places to go and butts to kick, stylishly of course. The collection was all black, grey, and white with the occasional canary yellow or denim piece.
One of the things that I always love about DKNY is how I can picture the pieces in my own life – The sheer blouses could be paired with a blazer and pencil skirt for a flirty work look or worn with shorts on the weekends, while the fitted, cropped pants that come in prints, solids, and stripes – which I would wear constantly – would easily go from day to night and from work to weekends. A great DKNY piece fits into your wardrobe, it goes with your existing wardrobe and helps take your looks up a notch.
Lacoste:
The Lacoste show was part traditional and part fun and new. There were basic whites and styles that the brand has shown consistently over the years, but there were also bold colors, fun graphic patterns, and the use of interesting new fabrics like mesh, clear plastic, and sheer pieces.
I especially liked the blue abstract print sweater dress, pajama dressing for men, and the sexy alligator stamped navy leather mini dress – They were all very Lacoste, but with a modern twist.
See by Chloe:
Digital Fashion Shows are becoming quite the thing and See by Chloe showed their second – a light, breezy, easy collection perfect for Spring.
Slouchy, primary colored separates, pantsuits with chic wrapped jackets, multicolored knits, drawstring pants & dresses, all paired with pointy toed low-heeled pumps and See by Chloe oversized clutches and duffle bags.
Tibi:
I can always tell a Tibi dress or blouse when I’m scrolling through the Bloomingdale’s website – Wearable clothing that’s sleek but always has some fun, feminine details that make it unique and perfect for pairing with other pieces already in your wardrobe.
The Spring 2013 collection showcased great leather pieces, some digital-inspired florals, denim, and lots of black and white. I loved the flirty separates, A-line mini skirts, wide belts, and killer ankle strap heels.
Nicole Miller:
Feminine but with an edge – That’s usually the best way to describe Nicole Miller’s always wearable collections. The pieces are always fun and flirty, but she always paires the sweet with fabrics, textures, and cuts with an edge.
This season the dark, moody florals were paired with body-con silhouettes, caged platform sandals, and touches of S&M-inspired leather and harnesses. I absolutely adored the shrunken jackets, both the zipper-adorned motorcycle jackets and the great floral blazers.
Sources: Style.com, Fashionologie, The Stylist, & Tom & Lorenzo
Previous NYFW Collections: New York Fashion Week Spring 2013 – Part I, New York Fashion Week Fall 2012, Pre-Fall 2012 Part I, Part II, Part III, and NYFW Spring 2012 Round-Up.
Additional reviews, photographs, shows, and videos: Modelinia’s Runway Report: Richard Chai Love, Jenni Kayne, And Kimberly Ovitz, Harper Bazaar’s Top Spring 2013 Trends, This Time Tomorrow’s J.Crew Spring/Summer 2013 Details, and FabSugar’s Best Bags From Fashion Week Spring 2013.
Are these “more affordable” collections the ones that you look forward to during New York Fashion Week? Can you see yourself buying these pieces from brands like J.Crew, Kate Spade, or Tibi?
Couture Couture Couture
Phenomenal. Breathtaking. Eye-Catching. Dreamy. Unbelievable. Divine.
Those are all words that I could easily use to describe the Fall 2012 Couture collections that were shown in Paris this past week. The locations ranged from the Grand Palais to the Ritz Hotel to the Musée Bourdelle, and the themes ran the gamut from old school glamour to futuristic to Game of Thrones.
Yes. Game of Thrones.
The big story this season was Raf Simons’s inaugural collection for the house of Christian Dior after leaving Jil Sander at the end of last season. The show began with classic Dior colors and silhouettes, elegant suits, ladylike dresses, and then ball gowns that I can guarantee will feature heavily on the red carpet in the coming year’s award season.
The collection was anything but boring though with metallic belts, gorgeous embroidery, dramatic peplums, oversized pockets, opera-length gloves, bold collars, tie dyed pieces, tweeds, and reach-out-and-touch-them textures. It was soft and elegant and oh-so-Dior, but with a dramatic, extravagant edge.
Divine!
I’m not sure if I can put it any better than the fabulous Mr Blasberg who proclaimed: “In the last 13 minutes, Raf Simons just single-handedly altered the contemporary haute couture landscape.” Curious how the phenomenal flower-strewn setting was created for this show? This video gives you a fabulous backstage peek at the process of creation.
New Vintage was the theme for Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel Fall 2012 Couture collection – “Vintage is depressing, but ‘new vintage’ is something to come. It’s preparation for something that could last.”
Bold plaid & checkered patterns, metal-tipped pumps, traditional tweeds, metallic silver tights, chunky knits, shimmery separates, slouchy sequined caps, oversized outerwear, maxi skirts and full pants, velvet coats, pussy bow blouses, Peter Pan collars, and dresses adorned with feathers, chiffon, tulle, and sequins all had a sassy retro feel with modern and sometimes futuristic-feeling details.
Givenchy‘s Riccardo Tisci is nothing if not detail oriented. His collections are traditionally small in size and he and his design teams & seamstresses really focus on making each look unique, one-of-a-kind, and highly intricate. His Fall 2012 collection focused on beading, heavy embroidery and brocades, leather working, fringe, and even sequins.
The restrained extravagance of this collection perfectly complemented the earthy, folksy theme that was somewhere between Little Red Riding Hood and Maid Marian. And I couldn’t have envisioned a more appropriate background than the lush green forest that these looks were photographed against.
While there was some of the famous Valentino red at the end of this show, the colors de jour were navy and creamy pink. The thick brocades and heavy embroideries in cream, peach, and pink played perfectly against the sequins, sheer panels, and flowing silks in varying shades of moody blues.
The details in these pieces were phenomenal, from delicate accordion pleats and metallic-laced brocades to dramatic floral cutouts and sheer chiffon ruffles. Chiuri and Piccioli have been getting their footing over the last few seasons and this couture collection seems to be the coming out party for the new Valentino – An opulent, dramatic twist on the old school glamour and romance that Valentino is known for.
In the world of couture Giorgio Armani’s Fall 2012 Armani Prive collection offered up something wholly different. Wearability. Given that couture is considered an art form and that pieces in these collections can range anywhere from $20,000 to $2,000,000, wearability is hardly the word de jour. But with the full, flattering cuts, cool, pale silks, and touchable, midnight dark velvets, wearable was just what he presented.
These looks were all about textures – Soft, sleek, touchable fabrics that you could almost feel against your skin. The jeweled and beaded veils were one of my favorite parts of this collection, they added serious drama and brought out a mysterious quality in the clothes that took you to another time and place.
The Versace show at the Ritz Hotel was wild and fun – Xena Warrior Princess meets Couture Barbie. The Versace woman is strong, fierce, and fearless, she embraces her sexuality and loves to show some skin. These clothes are not for the faint of heart, they were all about dramatic peek-a-boos, slashes, and slits.
Wide, tooled belts, multi-strap & buckle adorned heels, sheer cloth, sequined netting details, and spiderweb thin mesh gave this show unabashed shimmer, shine, and sex appeal.
The Versace girl is bold, uninhibited and in these clothes, she’s ready to party!
I always look forward to Giambattista Valli‘s collections – His esthetic is divine and I love how he always adds a little edge to his classic, ladylike silhouettes. And his second couture collection made me say to myself for a second time, Valli was made for couture.
And here in this dreamy place far away the moody reds and greens, organic prints, and flowing cuts & ruffles were all borrowed from nature; all-over muted floral patterns, applique and embroidered plant life, ruffles, flares, folds, and thick lace were all born of the outdoors. And with jewelry, accessories, and hairpieces evoking bugs, butterflies, and leaves, the theme was complete throughout the collection.
Rather than a fairy princess vibe the earthy tones and themes brought to mind wood nymphs and dryads – Woodland creatures who personified the various aspects of the natural world that they watched over; strong and eternal.
Sources: Fashionologie, Style.com, Tom & Lorenzo, TopCoat & FabSugar
If you’re curious to see what these designers have shown on the couture catwalk in seasons past here are a few links to try – Spring 2012 Couture and Fall 2011 Couture.
Moi Contre La Vie 