Paris Fashion Week Spring 2013
J’adore Paris!
There is no city quite like Paris and no fashion is quite like Parisian fashion. I adore many cultures and cities and designers, but there’s just something about Paris that you can’t forget.
Valentino:
Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli have consistently created lovely collections since taking over from Mr. Valentino himself – Lots of dresses, fabulous splashes of classic Valentino red, and red carpet ready gowns.
Leather, velvet, silk, chiffon, lace, satin, and eyelet all made their way down the runway – Along with the occasion statement coat and jumpsuit. My favorite look was the gold brocade coat-dress that Hanne Gaby Odiele wore down the catwalk – Tres chic!
Chanel:
The Chanel show is always a dramatic, eclectic spectacle and this season was no different with solar panels, turbines, and wind farm-like backdrops.
This collection included everything from hula hoop handbags, stark black & white, youthful polka dots, bright jewel tones, traditional florals, 80’s style fingerless gloves, denim, rompers, suits, wide-brimmed hats, and strappy wedges. I especially liked the chunky pearl bracelets & necklaces, the polka-dotted strapless dress, and the cute Dorothy-inspired blue & white gingham.
Alexander McQueen:
The McQueen show is always something to look forward to with eye-catching, one-of-a-kind makeup, backgrounds, clothing, and accessories. No other designer can come close to the types of shows that Lee McQueen – And now Sarah Burton – Put on.
This season’s collection had an S&M beekeeper type of vibe with safari-style netting covered hats, bustiers, thigh-high stockings, harnesses & corsets, bustles, wide belts, and bee, wasp, and honeycomb prints. Excessive, rich, over-the-top, and utterly stunning.
Miu Miu:
Denim, interesting fabrics & textures, moody prints, and a mixture of silhouettes and lengths all gave the Miu Miu collection a fun but grown-up feel.
I love classic workwear style pieces so this collection was right up my alley. I adored the pencil skirts and sleek sheath dresses, and the retro vibe was to die for with killer furs, boat neck tops, visible pin-up inspired bustiers, leather gloves, slim pocketbooks, and long, demure jackets. J’adore!
Lanvin:
“Deconstructed classicism” was the theme and it came to life in sleek separates and dresses done up in black & white, bold, vibrant jewel tones, and silky neutrals.
The collection was sleek and sexy, the pieces modern and wearable. The embellished prints were quite eye-catching but the sleek pieces in navy, black & white stole the show in my opinion. All of the looks above are amazing – I would wear them anytime, anywhere!
Yves Saint Laurent:
New name – Saint Laurent – retro vibe. The 70’s were back at YSL with leather, suede, fringe, wide-brimmed hats, and maxi lengths all evoking classic Yves.
The details of this collection were what caught my attention – The slim, cropped pants, the white piping on blazers, the patent t-trap heels, oversized bows at the neck, and opera-length gloves. I especially liked the pants looks and shimmering, two-toned caplet was the piece at the top of my Must Have list!
Givenchy:
While the theme may have been the same, Riccardo Tisci’s sedated and minimal interpretation of Catholicism was a far cry from the extravagant opulence of the Fall 2012 Dolce & Gabbana show at Milan Fashion Week.
The pieces may have been stark – Done up in mostly black & white with severe cuts – But they were still dramatic and eye-catching. I adored the black & white frocks, the flattering tunic-vests, the subtle ruffles, and the thick metallic chokers.
Stella McCartney:
The Stella show was bold in both color and silhouette – Her usual oversized, boy-meets-girl style got spiced up with wrap dresses, jumpsuits, and racerback tops.
The suits and the minimalistic pieces are always my favorite – Though the patchwork prints and cheerleader skirts last season proved that she’s got more up her sleeve. The safari-style tops were cute and versatile and the green she showed was right up my alley!
Louis Vuitton:
The LV collection was awash in checkered patterns, bright hues, and in a fun change of pace Mr. Jacobs had all of his models strut their stuff down the runway in pairs.
The mod feeling to the show was modernized by the eye-catching prints. The accessories were cute but minimally applied – Bow adorned headbands, checkered flats, and small patterned daybags. Fun, flirty, and oh-so-wearable. Just what Marc Jacobs does best!
Chloe:
The Chloe collection was primarily black and white with some splashes of burnt orange and fleshy pink throw in for good measure. Very French. Very feminine. Very Sweet.
The silhouettes ranged from oversized and exaggerated to romantic and womanly. While the colors, fabrics, and prints ran the gamut from black & white velvet to salmon stripes to sheer purple ruffles.
Balmain:
The Balmain collection brought to mind the 90’s with power suits, big shoulders, loud prints, thick belts, and plunging necklines. All with a Parisian, Balmain spin on them.
Stripes & checkers, bold yellow, oversized hoop earrings, metallic accessories, midriff baring tops, denim, and oversized blazers all had me checking the models faces to see if Cindy, Linda, Naomi, or Christy were there.
Christian Dior:
Raf’s debut collection for Dior was full of dichotomies – Stark but romantic, minimal but dramatic. He played with colors, prints, lengths, and silhouettes while still presenting a very Dior collection.
The suits and coat-dresses were my favorite, they came in different cuts and lengths, but were utterly chic and utterly timeless. The kinds of pieces that you invest in and wear for the rest of your life.
Sources: Style.com, Fashionologie, The Stylist, & Tom & Lorenzo
Previous Paris Fashion Week Collections: Paris Fashion Week Fall 2012, Paris Fashion Week Fall 2012 – Street Style & Front Row Fashion, Paris Fashion Week Spring 2012 Part I, Paris Fashion Week Spring 2012 – Part II, and Paris Fashion Week Spring 2012 – Street Style & Front Row Fashion.
Additional reviews, photographs, shows, and videos: Raf Simons, Hedi Slimane and the Tectonic Shifts of the Paris Fashion Establishment from Business Of Fashion, FabSugar’s Paris Fashion Week Diary, Precious Details from The Man Repeller, and Derek Blasberg’s A Photo Diary From Paris Fashion Week.
Which Paris Fashion Week show was your favorite? Do you like the classic, Paris Fashion Week institutions like Chanel and Valentino best or newer, more modern houses like Chloe and Alexander McQueen?
Couture – Front Row Fashion & Street Style
For me, a big part of the fun of a week of runway shows – like the Fall 2012 Couture collections – is seeing the street style looks that the lucky attendees put together for the shows, dinners, and parties. Seeing how the various designer collections translate to “real life” is inspiring, motivational, and downright fun.
Fabulous! I love the whole two-toned look and how she picked materials and silhouettes that keep it from being too casual. J’adore!
The volume of this mini takes it up a level so she’s right at home sitting front row at the Dior Couture show.
A pretty printed dress is the perfect look for a Dior show and I think that this beautiful flocked knee-length frock is ideal for Couture.
A lipstick red suit it cute enough but when you turn a suit top into a chic little tee with a contrasting black pocket I’m all yours!!!
Little Black Dress + Sequined Clutch + Saddle Shoes = the understated French je ne sais quoi.
Parisian street style chic at its finest – Whether they’re wearing ripped jeans, chic black & white, or a midi, these ladies know how to mix & match their separates for maximum impact.
Bright, flirty florals, a demure silhouette, and a too chic peplum. What a fabulous frock, I’m in awe.
The Russian fashion ladies are stylish and their looks vary dramatically between them. Such great contrasts!
I love a short-suit and this is a stylish example, I really like the chic cut of the jacket and the subtle ruffle along the hem of the shorts. And those shoes… Wow.
Elizabeth von Guttman, Alexia Niedzielski, Shala Monroque, Elena Perminova and Ulyana Sergeenko – All distinctly different looks for Giambattista Valli, but all very chic, well put together, and appropriate. From solid colored separates and midriff-baring tops, to printed suits and floor length florals, the front row is almost as fun as the runway!
The ladies spiced things up for the Versace show and chose edgier outfits, from lace cut outs, to leather, to dramatic stitching. Donatella would approve!
In addition to seeing the looks that celebrities, editors, and other fashion insiders put together for their front row appearances, I love to take a look at the (often heavily made-up) models as they run between runways shows or head out to parties. Model street style is always a great combination of pieces & styles, since they have the opportunity to see so many collections and have exposure to so many designers. Jealous!
I love a colorful maxi skirt and this combination – the basic white tee paired with the metallic pink oversized clutch – is flirty, fun, and perfect for Summer.
Only Hanneli could make a couture Valentino gown look so low-key and street-appropriate.
AMAZING coat + killer heels, what more does a girl need?
I adore the layering here! Cut-off white shorts, a blue & white button-up PJ top, a tan leather motorcycle jacket, ankle booties, retro round sunglasses & a killer two-toned clutch. Such an unexpected combination of pieces, but it works!
And finally, a fashion favorite of mine, hit it girl!
She’s going to couture shows in Paris. French designers. In Paris. I mean, could she have picked a more adorably over-the-top French look?
Sources: Harper’s Bazaar, Tom & Lorenzo, Cristina’s Blog & Mr. Blasberg
What’s your favorite look here?
Couture Couture Couture
Phenomenal. Breathtaking. Eye-Catching. Dreamy. Unbelievable. Divine.
Those are all words that I could easily use to describe the Fall 2012 Couture collections that were shown in Paris this past week. The locations ranged from the Grand Palais to the Ritz Hotel to the Musée Bourdelle, and the themes ran the gamut from old school glamour to futuristic to Game of Thrones.
Yes. Game of Thrones.
The big story this season was Raf Simons’s inaugural collection for the house of Christian Dior after leaving Jil Sander at the end of last season. The show began with classic Dior colors and silhouettes, elegant suits, ladylike dresses, and then ball gowns that I can guarantee will feature heavily on the red carpet in the coming year’s award season.
The collection was anything but boring though with metallic belts, gorgeous embroidery, dramatic peplums, oversized pockets, opera-length gloves, bold collars, tie dyed pieces, tweeds, and reach-out-and-touch-them textures. It was soft and elegant and oh-so-Dior, but with a dramatic, extravagant edge.
Divine!
I’m not sure if I can put it any better than the fabulous Mr Blasberg who proclaimed: “In the last 13 minutes, Raf Simons just single-handedly altered the contemporary haute couture landscape.” Curious how the phenomenal flower-strewn setting was created for this show? This video gives you a fabulous backstage peek at the process of creation.
New Vintage was the theme for Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel Fall 2012 Couture collection – “Vintage is depressing, but ‘new vintage’ is something to come. It’s preparation for something that could last.”
Bold plaid & checkered patterns, metal-tipped pumps, traditional tweeds, metallic silver tights, chunky knits, shimmery separates, slouchy sequined caps, oversized outerwear, maxi skirts and full pants, velvet coats, pussy bow blouses, Peter Pan collars, and dresses adorned with feathers, chiffon, tulle, and sequins all had a sassy retro feel with modern and sometimes futuristic-feeling details.
Givenchy‘s Riccardo Tisci is nothing if not detail oriented. His collections are traditionally small in size and he and his design teams & seamstresses really focus on making each look unique, one-of-a-kind, and highly intricate. His Fall 2012 collection focused on beading, heavy embroidery and brocades, leather working, fringe, and even sequins.
The restrained extravagance of this collection perfectly complemented the earthy, folksy theme that was somewhere between Little Red Riding Hood and Maid Marian. And I couldn’t have envisioned a more appropriate background than the lush green forest that these looks were photographed against.
While there was some of the famous Valentino red at the end of this show, the colors de jour were navy and creamy pink. The thick brocades and heavy embroideries in cream, peach, and pink played perfectly against the sequins, sheer panels, and flowing silks in varying shades of moody blues.
The details in these pieces were phenomenal, from delicate accordion pleats and metallic-laced brocades to dramatic floral cutouts and sheer chiffon ruffles. Chiuri and Piccioli have been getting their footing over the last few seasons and this couture collection seems to be the coming out party for the new Valentino – An opulent, dramatic twist on the old school glamour and romance that Valentino is known for.
In the world of couture Giorgio Armani’s Fall 2012 Armani Prive collection offered up something wholly different. Wearability. Given that couture is considered an art form and that pieces in these collections can range anywhere from $20,000 to $2,000,000, wearability is hardly the word de jour. But with the full, flattering cuts, cool, pale silks, and touchable, midnight dark velvets, wearable was just what he presented.
These looks were all about textures – Soft, sleek, touchable fabrics that you could almost feel against your skin. The jeweled and beaded veils were one of my favorite parts of this collection, they added serious drama and brought out a mysterious quality in the clothes that took you to another time and place.
The Versace show at the Ritz Hotel was wild and fun – Xena Warrior Princess meets Couture Barbie. The Versace woman is strong, fierce, and fearless, she embraces her sexuality and loves to show some skin. These clothes are not for the faint of heart, they were all about dramatic peek-a-boos, slashes, and slits.
Wide, tooled belts, multi-strap & buckle adorned heels, sheer cloth, sequined netting details, and spiderweb thin mesh gave this show unabashed shimmer, shine, and sex appeal.
The Versace girl is bold, uninhibited and in these clothes, she’s ready to party!
I always look forward to Giambattista Valli‘s collections – His esthetic is divine and I love how he always adds a little edge to his classic, ladylike silhouettes. And his second couture collection made me say to myself for a second time, Valli was made for couture.
And here in this dreamy place far away the moody reds and greens, organic prints, and flowing cuts & ruffles were all borrowed from nature; all-over muted floral patterns, applique and embroidered plant life, ruffles, flares, folds, and thick lace were all born of the outdoors. And with jewelry, accessories, and hairpieces evoking bugs, butterflies, and leaves, the theme was complete throughout the collection.
Rather than a fairy princess vibe the earthy tones and themes brought to mind wood nymphs and dryads – Woodland creatures who personified the various aspects of the natural world that they watched over; strong and eternal.
Sources: Fashionologie, Style.com, Tom & Lorenzo, TopCoat & FabSugar
If you’re curious to see what these designers have shown on the couture catwalk in seasons past here are a few links to try – Spring 2012 Couture and Fall 2011 Couture.
Spring 2012 Couture – Front Row Fashion & Streetstyle
Almost as interesting as watching the runway shows are the looks put together by the celebrities, A-listers, models, editors and industry insiders as they sit front row watching.
I've never been a fan of ponchos but even I have to admit that this is striking - I love the combination of the vibrant, cobalt blue & the grey tweed. Don't you just love seeing the models after the shows in their own clothes but still in hair & makeup? Like the meeting of two worlds! 🙂
Alexandra Golovanoff stunned in a black and white printed knit shift dress with slouchy boots, a fedora and a cashmere coat at Valentino. I would be so tempted to wear pretty, frilly Valentino despite the freezing temp so good for her!
Diane looked gorgeous in Giambattista Valli Haute Couture. It's hard for blonds to wear grey but she found the perfect shades. I love the intricate beading on the tweed and her cat-eye make up the best.
While Josephine de la Baume & Olympia Scarry don't look thrilled to be there, Ni Ni looks stunning, happy and perfectly coiffed for the front row of Christian Dior Haute Couture. Gorgeous!
Miss Diane was also front row at Versace in a stunning black and white dress that included stripes and florals, and a hippie-inspired white leather belt.
Leave it to the models fresh off the runway to put together the best streetstyle looks. Cable knit sweaters and double-breasted wool peacoats with liquid leather leggings, skinny jeans and boots of all heights. They certainly know what they're doing.
Diane was a vision in an adorable in a black & white high-necked, sleeveless dress with a sweet drop-waist. Chanel Haute Couture of course darling.
Fur & leather are both good ways to keep warm during a Parisian winter. Olivia wore a knee-length open fur vest with leather leggings and carried a printed umbrella to get her from show to show.
Cameron Diaz has been all over Paris for the shows but this was the first picture that I really fell for. The color of this Valentino frock is absolutely great with her skin tone and I like how its interesting and eye-catching without being revealing.
What would a trip to Paris be without a glimpse of the oh so famous Clarins sisters? I love the floral printed blouse mixed with the white lace booties, makes me wish it was warmer.
This is an unusual dress to be sure and I was a little confused/unsure about the sheer bust area but overall I like it. It's a fun & unique color, yellow lace is new and the fit is flattering. Also, j'adore those shoes!
Oh Anna, we love you!
Source, Source, Source & Source
Harper’s Bazaar even has a style breakdown of fashion editor Miroslava Duma’s great leather leggings & cropped red coat look here.
*** Please note that I do not in any way advocate the use of fur in fashion and personally make an effort not to wear/carry fur, exotic skins or leather. This day in age there are many beautiful alternatives to these products which are cruelty & animal-free and should be utilized instead.
Moi Contre La Vie 